An ode to linen: the fabric of summer

Here at Valstar, we’re fastidious when it comes to materials and textiles, and we believe that we are experts in the tactile field. Whilst our 112 years of history shows that we’ve paid particularly close attention to mostly suede and waterproof materials, we’ve, in recent seasons, become enamoured by the many virtues that linen offers. This is because it’s simply a wonderful fabric; it has unique characteristics, sustainable qualities and a history dating back thousands of years. What’s more, it looks fantastic when rumpled and heavily worn.

Linen is officially one of the oldest known fibres used to make clothing, and it originates from the flax plant, which is grown all over the world – from northern Africa to swathes of Asia and North America. The earliest evidence of humans using wild flax as a textile comes from present-day Georgia, where spun, dyed, and knotted wild flax fibres were found in a cave that dated back to the Upper Paleolithic era, which was 30,000 years ago. Ever since then, every modern society in human history has used flax for a multitude of purposes (not just clothing), favouring it for its many benefits, particularly due to how it performs in hot weather due to its natural breathability and cool handle.

Today, linen is a widely used fabric that’s the go-to for summer clothing for multiple reasons. Unlike cotton, many wools and synthetics, the fabric isn’t woven as tightly on the looms and therefore doesn’t trap air but allows it to circulate through it and thus keep you cool. The fibres are also extremely lightweight and proficient in moisture-wicking and dry quickly (should, for example, you get caught in the rain or perspiring).

Aside from the performance benefits of linen, it’s also one of the most sustainable materials used in clothing manufacturing. Of course, it’s 100% natural because it is derived from a plant grown worldwide in abundance, but it’s also entirely biodegradable and thus has minimal environmental impact.

It should be noted that linen can be blended with other fibres to create a hybrid fabric that borrows the best elements from both. This is the case with our washed linen blend Field Jacket, which features a mix of cotton and linen that’s finished with a waterproof treatment. This jacket features four pockets on the front and an adjustable waist, providing streamlined utility and protection from the elements whilst retaining the rumpled nature that linen develops once worn in. It’s available in navy and ecru and comes unlined for maximum breathability.

There is another version of the Field Jacket which is made from 100% linen, and this version draws inspiration from military apparel from the Vietnam War. With reinforced details, these areas will develop beautiful distressing details through wash and wear. It’s available in military green and cappuccino – both of which nod to the garment's military heritage – and also unlined for maximum breathability.

As you’ll know, the Valstarino is our most iconic garment; it was developed in 1935 and has been featured in every collection since, and in recent years we’ve produced an array of versions using linen – both Irish linen, which is more substantial, and Italian linen, which is lighter. Options are available in various colours, including classic tones of navy, brown, and green, but also more contemporary colours, such as bright orange and ecru.

Lastly, the Blouson jacket has neither military nor aviation roots, yet provides the same clean and stylish silhouette that the Valstarino and Field Jacket offer. The fabric itself is sourced from a little-known supplier we’ve discovered in Naples, who’ve managed to make it feel featherlight. The jacket features a shirt-style collar, which makes it an easy-going casual piece; meanwhile, the short and boxy silhouette gives it a touch of a workwear aesthetic. It’s available in navy and safari green and is lined.

In summary, linen is a fantastic fabric to wear in the summer for so many reasons; it’s sustainable and biodegradable, it keeps you cool and dry even in humid weather, and it develops signs of ageing that cotton and wool, for example, are incapable of. In other words, it’s an essential material to have at your disposal this season, and the aforementioned jackets do it true justice.

Shop our linen jackets